On our third day in Tokyo we left our bags in our next hotel and headed to Ueno to get on a train to Kusatsu. Kusatsu is known for its onsen and is a very popular tourist attraction but mostly Japanese tourists, which was refreshing to see.
As the train moved northwest of Tokyo and through the mountains, all the way up to 1200 meters above sea level, the change of scenery was breathtaking. Some of my best flash memories from all our trips to Japan are the train rides, just going from concrete jungles to greenery. It’s very wholesome.
We arrived to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi after about 2h30 on the train and embarked on a bus towards Kusatsu. Old bus, full of seniors Japanese. And us. Perfection right there.
As we stepped out of the bus we could tell the weather was so much more comfortable than what we left behind in Shinagawa. We could finally stay outside and not feel like we were boiling.
We headed to our guesthouse, Oyado Yukizumi where we were greeted with tea and some snacks. We had Yukatas to wear at will and the girls immediately wanted to put them on. Afterwards we went out to explore.
The main town square is called the Yubatake, where you can see how the very hot waters are cooled in several wooden crates that form channels, taking the water to private or public bathhouses. The whole place has the very characteristic smell of sulphur. I don’t mind it.
We had a sort of snack at this hole-in-the-wall place, Yakitori Shizuka, that sold yakitori and other things on sticks that were just delicious. I had an almost spiritual experience savouring a crispy chicken skin. I don’t think I’ll ever forget it.
The girls had ice cream and we then got some bento boxes for dinner at our guesthouse.
The morning after we had a scrumptious breakfast. It was our only full day in Kusatsu, and we booked a family bath in a nearby bathhouse. Let me tell you: the experience was unforgettable. The place was just for us and the girls had fun staying in the hot water and getting out to spray themselves with cold water and getting back to the hot water, etc.. Unique and unforgettable. The girls still talk about it to this day.
We then went out for lunch, at this vegetarian place. Everything was delicious. Madalena however, after the meal, a hot bath and so much fun, fell asleep right at the table.
We bought the then new Asahi Nama Jokki. It was quite the feast we had. We then stepped out to see the matsuri. The town was alive with people bustling around. We had dinner from the several food stalls, sitting outside and people watching – the best.
Before the firework we strolled around to check the other temples. On our way there we found two japanese men selling these homemade cookies – they were trying to sell them to get rid of the stock (as far as I remember). They asked were we were from and when we answered ‘Portugal’ they went on a footballers rampage (from the olden days), ‘aah Rui Costa!’ ‘Oooh Eusébio! Figo!’.
It was really heartwarming and they were really nice. When we arrived at the hot springs we sat with our feet in the water, while the sun set and purple lights turned on all around us. Magical.
When we got back to the main square the fireworks were on. We watched for a bit and then went to a fishing stall where the girls fished out some toys (check the video at the end of the post). This was an old dream of mine, as a manga and anime fan. I wished they had the little fish game as well, but they didn’t… maybe one day!
The next morning we left with our bellies full and our hearts and souls even fuller.
This was the trip of a lifetime and, as I was biting on that chicken skin, and as I saw the girls having fun in the hot tub and me and Filipe having a blast with the foamy beer and us four watching the fireworks together I felt fully alive and so immensely grateful for our lives and every little thing we see, do and have.
tell me what you think!